I was stuck with the handle length I had, the piece of wood was exactly 3 feet long. Sand the sides if required using the Dremel Once the front and rear are done, cut a couple of strips of EVA to fill the sides of the handle until there are no gaps. Now go back to your template and using the central column section cut the front and back faces, then thin them down using the Dremel and or knives and start filling in the gaps between the blades. Next I laminated each blade using impact adhesive (barge cement), ensuring that the 'patterned' side of the tiles were on the outside faces.Īfter hollowing out a 'groove' on the mating inner faces of the blades using the Dremel, the two blade halves were cemented in place using impact adhesive. I then cut two left and two right blade sections from the foam tile. This will allow me to hollow out a curve where the blade meets the handle to get a better bond. I carefully removed just the blade sections allowing a 3/4" section of the central column remaining. Once we have our main template we need to decide how to section it out in a way that makes sense for construction. One set was then glued to some cereal card and cut out. I used Posterazor (see my ible on making prop weapons from junk for details of this) to produce two identical sets of templates on thin printer card. My axe head worked out to around 315 mm wide. The first job is to prepare a couple of templates, I 'roughly' calculated sized based on the width of the wooden part of the handle. A Dremel or similar rotary tool with some sanding drums would be a big advantage too. You will obviously need some VERY sharp knives, snap off, box cutter, x-acto, or in my case surgical scalpels. The only thing I had to purchase was a small bag of 'dome head nails' (these are 9mm ones) that cost me about £2.00 Other materials were a single EVA tile mat 14mm thick, a length of 1" diameter wooden broom handle, some 2mm funky foam, paint and glue. I decided to finally build this prop because I had some faux leather left from another project to use on the handle. The head is obviously the part that is most interesting to us, especially the filigree work that makes it all stand out. One is a close up of the head, the other a general overall view of the weapon. I found two usable original concept art images for the axe.
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